Fifteen years ago today, I sat on the Great Wall of China and pondered the journey I was setting out upon — 61 weeks by land across Asia, from China to Turkey. To commemorate the anniversary, I post the following excerpt from my unpublished manuscript about the journey: Sitting alone on the Great Wall […]
October 20, 1918: The Last Day Of Forrest Hayden’s Life
It is hard to relate to things that happened a century ago, even though they very much shape our societies today. The present, not that which precedes our birth, presses against us and feels alive. For Forrest Hayden of Kentucky, whose grave is seen in the above photo, the year 1918 surely started out feeling […]
Visiting the John McCain monument in Hanoi, Vietnam
The monument is easy to miss, and not only because it’s small. Tourist trails laid out by guidebooks are more likely to lead you to other places in Hanoi: around Hoan Kiem Lake, through the picturesque Old Quarter, or to the Temple of Literature. They’re less likely to lead you to John McCain. And understandably. […]
The Role Children Play In Connecting People
A historian could talk for weeks about the Turkish city of Mardin, located in the country’s southeastern corner not far from the Tigris River. But in this post, I only want to say a word about one of its more recent inhabitants. Her name is Reyyan, and when we met in 2017, she was three […]
The Grave Of Wladyslaw Szpilman, “The Pianist”
Władysław Szpilman (December 5, 1911 – July 6, 2000) was a Polish pianist, a classical composer, and a Jew who survived the Holocaust. He was also the subject of one of my favorite films, The Pianist. Directed by Roman Polanski, the 2002 film is based on Szpilman’s autobiography and shows us his life in Warsaw […]
Thoughts On How To Use Ballistic Missiles
In a more perfect world, more countries would have ballistic missiles, but they’d only use them to send meaningful messages written on biodegradable confetti paper to the population of other nations. So, for example, on Eid al-Adha, Saudi Arabia might fire one at Dearborn, Michigan with a bunch of messages that say things like, “May […]
A Calm Evening In A Turbulent City (Diyarbakir, Turkey)
Seen from the moon, Diyarbakir must look small, like every other city on Earth must look small. Located in southeastern Turkey, a little more than 900 miles from Istanbul, the ancient heart of Diyarbakir has a wall around it — a relatively famous wall in fact, as far as city walls go. It stretches 5.8 […]
The Most Pro-American Country In The World: Kosovo
From 1998 to 1999, war raged in Kosovo, and 13,000 people, most of them ethnic Albanians, were killed. Thousands were raped, and well over a million displaced from their homes. In response, President Bill Clinton led the NATO airstrikes that targeted Serbian leader Slobodan Milosevic’s military, bringing an end to the conflict. The above is a […]
Before Disembarking, They Gave Me Chicken, Bread, And Cheese
Out the window, on the train traveling from Luxor to Cairo, civilization looked tired. Palm trees were brown with dust, and litter floated in canals. Crosses and crescents rose above neighborhoods of broken, mud-brick walls, and it was impossible not to think of the tension between Christianity and Islam here. Donkeys trod past machines in […]
A Snowman Architect In Istanbul
In the historic Sultanahmet district of Istanbul, in that open space between the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, I have many memories. My first time backpacking — a three-week trip through Turkey and Greece in 1997 — ended here. So did a 14-month trip from Beijing to Istanbul in late 2004. And in between […]
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